Connections

Orchid Nursery at Gamboa Rain Forest Resort

   

One of the most interesting of the five on-site interest centers was the orchid nursery.  I had no idea how orchids were propigated.  I knew it wasn't from seed but I never would have thought of starting them on slices of tree trunks.  The hotel produces its own flowers for dinner tables and decorations by growing them in flower gardens and in the orchid nursery.

 

More flowers from the Gamboa flower gardens

 

One of many beautiful fresh floral arrangements in the hotel

This is the last photo and blog post about Panama.  I will put some other photos in the Panama 2008 album on the left side of this blog.  Gleaning from the over 400 photos I took during the 5 days in Panama will not be easy.

Spider, Tagua Carvings and baskets

 

Spider, web and leaf from Barro Colorado Island hike

The last day of our Panama trip was spent hiking onBarro Colorado Island, the home of the Smithsonian Research Institute.  Ten of us climbed the steps and listened intently as each of the rainforest wonders was explained.  Among the literally hundreds of photos taken on our five-day visit to Panama was this happy accident.  I pointed, zoomed and hoped the image stabilizer did its job.  It did. We had watched this colorful little spider working for some minutes when I decided I might be able to capture him digitally.

Over the years we've brought home our share of souvenirs from other countries, trying in some way to capture the culture and memories in something tangible.  Lately it has dawned on us that these small tangibles are taking over our house.  Knowing this, however, did not keep us from purchasing 3 small items to add to our collection of favorite things.  The first was a basket woven by some members of the Embera Indigenous People of Panama.  It is tightly woven and designs are colored with natural plant dyes.  To see more examples of art by Indigenous People of Panama, click this link.

 

Small basket (about 5 inches diameter) from Embera People

Below are two tagua carvings.  Tagua is known as the environmentally friendly ivory. The carvings are done on the extremely durable white enterior of the Tagua nut/seed.  Here are the two we purchased at a local market.

 

Carving of a common rainforest poison dart frog

 

   Tagua carving of a rainforest iguana 

Rainforest trees, trails and vines

 

Bob and I by a bombacacio tree on Barro Colorado Island

A highlight of our rainforest hikes came the day we took a 45-minute boat ride across Gatun Lake to the island where Smithsonian Institute has a research  center for studying tropical plants, animals and insects.  We hiked for about 5 hours in 90 degree temperature and 90% humidity.  To guard against insect bites we had to wear long- sleeve shirts tucked into the waist of our pants and our socks taped up over our pants legs.  In the days we were there, the main culprits were chiggers, not mosquitos.  The guide told our party of 10 that the buttress base of this tree was 60 feet in diameter.  It was so tall that we really couldn't see the top of it.

 

This was truly Tarzan country.  We did not leave the trail.

After 5 hours of walking we were all drenched with sweat and our clothes were dripping wet.  Following the hike we heard a lecture by one of the researchers on the use of sound by bullet ants to communicate different messages to both ants and predators. 

   

The prepared trails we walked for 5 hours up and down

At 3:30 p.m. we returned our walking poles,  drank some fresh squeezed juice and made our way to the pier where we boarded our boat for the return trip to Gamboa.  We picked up our rented car at the pier at 4:30 p.m.--just in time to spend almost 2 hours in rush hour traffic on the way to the airport.  Bob turned in our car and we went to the nearby Riande hotel where we spent our last night in Panama.  We boarded our flight at 9:30 a.m, had an uneventful transfer in Atlanta and arrived home around 7:00 p.m.

Panama Vieja

 

An art market in a plaza in Panama Vieja 

This art market accompanied musical entertainment for the people who came for the monthly lotteria which is held in a different area of town each month.   We rarely buy souvenirs for ourselves these days so the only things we brought home besides photos were a woven basket and two tagua seed carvings.  Tagua seeds are known as the environmentally friendly ivory.  It has a white, extremely hard interior that lends itself well to intricate carvings--and no animals die for their tusks or horns. I'll post photos of these in a later post.

 

One of many blocks undergoing restoration in Casco Viejo

Many of the charming old buildings already have been remodeled and sold to new residents and in almost every block renovations are underway.  I always love the older parts of cities and this is no exception.

 

Bust of Margot Fonteyn who danced with Nureyev

She married a man from Panama and lived her post career years there.  Jose had said we should see the first performance art theater in Panama which is located in the old city.  We thought we'd just stop in and take a photo before we continued on our way. When we entered, someone indicated that there was a rehearsal going on.  We turned to leave but the guard called to us that it was permitted to go in and watch.  What lucky timing!  We were able to watch about 30 minutes of the rehearsal in this beautiful theater in the classic style with dark wood--like rich mahogany--boxes and heavy velvet curtains. The ballerinas floated through my mind for the rest of the day.

Dancing Pollera

 

Folklorico dancers dancing pollera

Jose took us to a place called Mi Pueblito where dancers performed various dances typical of Panama's past history. Jose explained that this dance got its name from the long flowing skirts that women once used to herd chickens (pollos).  Here it was performed to a cumbia rhythm.  I took small videos on my digital camera but have yet to figure how to embed them in a blog post. 

 

More pollera dancers

We watched many dancers for almost an hour but the real heart-stealers were these two little ones below:

 

Little girls dancing pollera to a cumbia rhythm 

Gamboa Rainforest Resort

 

The back view of Gamboa Rainforest Resort in Panama

This is where we spent four of our six nights in Panama.  We stayed our first and last nights near the airport to simplify logistics as we arrived late and left early.  The location of this hotel is right in the middle of the rainforest, built on land that was once used by the U.S. Military.  Now this hotel features many ecological exhibits on its grounds:  an orchid nursery, a butterfly house, a serpenterium, an acquarium and even a replica of a village of the Embera indigenous people where representatives appear to demonstrate items from their culture.  It was one of the most relaxing places I have visited in years. See the official website of this beautiful place here.    

All the rooms face a view of the Chagres River and Gatun Lake.  Below is what we saw each time we walked out onto our balcony.

 

View of Chagres River from our balcony

We rose early each morning and walked in the rainforest, spotting birds, agouti and capibara.  The agouti is a rodent about the size of small dog like a jack russell terrier.  The Capibara, a nocturnal animal, is the world's largest rodent. The morning wake-up call was birdsong.  We took a nocturnal walk sponsored by the hotel and saw a few animals and heard a lot of night calls. 

We saw such signs for various animals along roads & trails.

The Canal tour that almost didn't happen

Water level in the locks before the fill 

We eventually did make the canal tour but no thanks to Grayline Discovery Tours, with whom we had a paid reservation and instructions on where to meet the bus at 7:15 for an 8:00 a.m. departure to the boat pier.  We arrived at 7:20 and waited, and waited and no Grayline bus arrived nor any other people waiting for a bus.  At 8:15 a small 20 passenger bus from another company arrived.  We asked if they knew about Grayline and how we might contact them as there were no public phones in the area.  She called the number on our paid voucher but got no answer.  Since the tours only go on Saturdays, this was our only chance.  Finally she came over and said we could ride with her group to the pier and then she had arranged with another group to bring us back in their bus after the tour as her group was going on an all-day tour through all the locks and we were scheduled for the partial tour.  We climbed onto the bus and were greeted by 18  "Gutentag's."  It was a German speaking tour.  Neither of the tour operators would take payment.  They just made room for us.  They asked us to demand a refund from Grayline and gave us their numbers and said they would be glad to verify that they provided the service.    I've never before used Grayline and now I certainly never will!

Once on our 100-passenger boat that was only half filled,  we had a marvelous experience. The tour was narrated in English, Spanish and German.  Breakfast, lunch and cold drinks were provided. You can view the Panama Canal 24-hour webcam here.  The large cargo ship partially visible above is what we followed through the first three locks.  In this photo below you can compare the water level after only 7 minutes in the lock.

 

Fully filled lock and ship underway

The other boat that joined us and the cargo ship is the one below.  Because the engine wash could toss them around a bit, they tied onto our boat for the trip through the locks.

 

Mystic scenery

Mystic Pizza on Mystic's main street

I don't know if this place appeared before or after the movie but I wasn't the only one taking a photo. 

After spending 3 hours at the seaport outdoor museum, we drove through Mystic proper and then over to New London waterfront.  We probably should have gone into New London itself as the waterfront was, well, too much waterfront, trains, tracks, cranes and infrastructure.  As we left we saw some beautiful homes and architecture in New London--from a distance, but were running out of time and energy.

I did get some late-afternoon shots of some picturesque pond-front homes on our way back to our hotel.

Obviously these are high-end homes, but I noticed that even the smaller homes on smaller lots had a lot of charm and character.  It is a beautiful area that I'd like to visit again for a longer time.

Behind a restaurant on Mystic River, just outside the museum

This was about 2:00 p.m. and already the wind-chill was in the air.  By sunset at 4:30 we were looking for a warm place and a hot drink.  It was exactly what I have always enjoyed about the autumn season:  beautiful colored leaves, warm days with a little nip of cold on the cheeks toward evening. 

Of course we had seafood for the evening meal both nights.  The first night our meal was accompanied by a "Flight of wines,"  5 different 3 oz. pours of wine which we shared and rated.  Great idea, a good-sized taste of 5 wines for $10.  For a quick 3-day trip we felt we sampled the flavor of the place--both in the food and in the culture.

Mystic Seaport Museum

A seaport museum of antique ships and support buildings

When my husband mentioned a quick trip to Mystic, Connecticut, I had no idea where we were going.  I had seen the movie Mystic River and found it to be powerful.  I had heard about but not seen the movie Mystic Pizza which launched Julia Roberts.  Sadly I admit that I did not know for sure which states bordered Connecticut and was surprised that we were to fly into Providence, R.I. and drive only 47 miles to Mystic.

My husband is the one who reads about and builds models of antique ships.  He is currently building a model of  The Charles Morgan, a whaling ship that operated for 80 years, making over 37 voyages--some as long as 5 years away from her home port.

I am a lover of museums of any kind but was still unprepared for how special this outdoor museum on the water is.  We spent 3 hours  walking onto ships and listening to knowlegeable people explain the culture of the sea and management of a ship's crew.  It was a fascinating experience.  One thing I learned is that life at sea was a very demanding and difficult one.  Just managing the live food on board--chickens and goats--would have had me wanting to go home.

Bob beside the Charles Morgan (above) and on board with a docent (below)

We both were amazed that there was still a lot of autumn color in Connecticut as late as November 13.  It wasn't the peak of autumn but the colors were still beautiful and made a perfect frame for the many typical colonial-style homes in the area.

 

Hawaiian flower

This unknown flower bloomed near the door of our rental house.

There was no one to ask its name but every morning it was a little different, a new bloom or a new red point. There is just something about it that gives me pleasure and peace.  Does anyone know this flower?

Leeward Hawaii

Hawaii Kai and Koko Crater from Makapu'u Point Trail

The simple crossing of a pass at Makapu'u beach changes the landscape from lush tropical plants to a drier look filled cacti, palm trees and succulents.  There is less wind so the lava-rock tide pools are more accessible. 

One morning when the parents were sleeping late, we took Clio to introduce her to tide pools, plumaria blossoms and cactus gardens.

Bob and Clio tide-pool walking near Sandy Beach

After collecting ocean-polished bottle glass, coral pieces and shell fragments, we drove a mile further to Koko Crater Botanic gardens.  Though several books had commented that after 30 years of work, the gardens still have a primitive look to them.   I loved this crater when we lived there in the late 1970's and I love it now.  The plantings have grown and matured.  There is a dedicated cactus garden, plumaria orchard and a section of viney trees.  The paths are natural, not paved, but they are wide and smoothe enough for wheel-chair access.

.

The plumaria orchards were the biggest surprise. They are large trees and we could just reach the lower branches. Plumaria flowers are the most common ones used in lei's for greeting people upon airport arrival and for honoring and thanking those in the community.

Clio picked up a blossom and carried it through the gardens, back to the house and kept it in a glass until it had turned brown.

Below is a photo of Clio and Bob.  He squatted down to show her something at her level, but she squatted down also.  I just happened to catch it on my digital cam.

Bob and Clio in the Koko Crater Botanic Gardens

Byodo In Temple

Byodo In, showpiece of Valley of Temples near Kaneohe

I remember visiting this place before but I didn't remember the pervasive sense of peace and wonder that surrounds the building, gardens and ponds.  No longer a "believer" in supernatural intervention, I am perhaps more open to appreciation of a place that exudes calm and quiet beauty--from this magnificent replica of a Buddhist temple in Kyoto Japan to the simple bamboo forest on the outskirts of the property.

Surrounding the temple structure housing the gigantic Buddha were streams and ponds were many light-reflecting streams and ponds containing hundreds of Koi. You can see some koi in this photo of the open part of the temple.  A local author and World War 2 expert was signing the 4 volumes of his books and Bob stopped to chat with him.  They can just barely be seen on the near corner of the temple.

Book-signing at the Byodo In

When one crosses the bridge the first thing you hear is the deep melodious tone of the giant gong.  It is so large that it is struck by swing an 8-foot tree truck into it. The grounds are spectacular.  From meandering stream with two black swans to a small gift shop in the corner, everything is peaceful.

Only one swan made the photo

Until Hawaii I had never actually seen a bamboo forest other than in a tropical atrium of a botanical garden.  They are not majestic or sturdy and grounded.  They are spindly and green and somewhat fragile in the wind--but I absolutely love walking around and near these bamboo outcroppings.

Bamboo forest on Byodo In Temple grounds.

Windward Oahu

Kaneohe from the Pali Lookout

One thing we learned about the Hawaiian Islands when we lived there in the last 1970's was that each island has a leeward and a windward side.  The windward side is more humid and sometimes windier but it is also where one finds lush green growth year round as well as tropical forests that can be seen from this lookout on the Pali Highway.  We were staying about 10 miles to the right of this photo--in Waimanalo.

The Ko'olau mountains from our waimanalo front porch

When we lived in Hawaii we lived on the leeward side as that just happened to be where we found a house to rent.  It was interesting to see and feel the difference.  The difference was more than the climate.  It was also that Waimanalo was more of a small town with fewer tourists and more people who greeted each other by name in Mel's Market where "our" neighborshop shopped for staples and quick meals.

Waimanalo Beach at 8:00 a.m--almost deserted.

When we lived here, I never visited this beach.  It was a well-kept secret from tourists and short-term residents--and for good reason--as it is absolutely gorgeous and nearly private.  It is kid-friendly and boasts spectacular sunrises.  Unfortunately we, being on vacation time, never woke early enough to see one. 

The houses here are more modest but equally well-kept and funtional. I came away with a great love for "Nalo."

Best Laid Plans...

Getting from here (dinner in L.A with Fran) to...

....Coconut House in Waimanalo Oahu Hawaii.....

....definitely was not easy.  We planned to stay overnight in Los Angeles so that we could personally meet Fran, a fellow member of an online list, whom I've known as a cyber friend since 1998.  That part worked great.  We had a wonderful meal and a delightful visit.  We left the restaurant fairly early so that we could get enough sleep before catching a 5:30 a.m. shuttle to the airport for our flight to Honolulu. 

The uncooperative weather in the midwest delayed flights into L.A. which resulted in an oversold situation on the next two flights to Honolulu.  A friend sent me this prose poem by Naomi Shihab Nye and challenged me to put my own saga on paper.

This is what I wrote--with abject apologies to Naomi Shihab Nye:

Eleven hours in LAX,

March 1, 2007

-----

Three flights of people, two scheduled for yesterday

And one for today,

All with tickets to Honolulu from L.A,

Waiting to see who and how many can board

This early-morning flight

And who must wait until 8 o’clock tonight.

----

While two agents processed tickets,

Another made an announcement:

“Any confirmed seat-holder who gives up a seat

Will receive $400, a ticket to San Francisco on American

And a seat on Delta’s San Fran flight to Honolulu.

They will arrive at 10:25 tonight--Hawaiian time.”

Twelve people volunteered.

-----

Announcement:

“Today’s final flight from L.A. to Honolulu is now filled.

The next flight leaves tomorrow morning.”

Immediately the 10 or 12 stranded non-revs

gather to commiserate—and to plan.

With cell phones and lap-tops busy,

Information is exchanged.

We call Southwest, USAir, Alaska Air,

American and United.

Who flies to San Fran? 

Does Delta still have space if we get there?

-----

Dave, parent of a Delta employee, and his wife Pam tell us,

“We’re going to Maui and there’s room for 65 more

on the 5 o’clock flight, arriving at 9:30 Hawaii time.”

Al and Betty from Edmonton decide to stay

in L.A. another day.

The Pakistani couple tells Jeannene about a

Northwest flight from Maui to Honolulu ,

the last one of the day, leaving at 11:45,

But the news arrives just after she had hit “send”

on a non-refundable reservation for an overpriced room

almost an hour from Maui airport.

-----

The family gathers, confers, and concurs:

we’ll take the Northwest flight

And cross our fingers that my lawyer son

In his most persuasive voice

Can convince the hotel manager

To refund the reservation. 

He flashes “thumbs up.”

We are going to Maui!

-----

I call the car rental company we’d gotten through Hotwire.

They say they can’t hold the car that long and, besides,

They close at 1:00 a.m.  I call Hotwire. 

They say, “No problem! The reservation was prepaid. 

They’ll hold it for 24 hours,

but we have no control over their closing time.”

-----

We arrived in Honolulu at 12:40 a.m. grateful

that our luggage arrived on the flight we missed.

Bob and Dane ran to get the car.

Jeannene, Clio and I ran to get the luggage.

We decided by cell-phone where to meet.

We loaded the car and got out directions

Hoping our memories from 20 years ago

Would get us over the Pali Highway at night.

They did.

------

We drove into the driveway of our vacation house at 2 a.m.

The owners, knowing our plight,

Left us Hawaiian Guava drinks,

And for breakfast:

Kona coffee, maple syrup

And Macadamia nut pancake mix.

--The Aloha Spirit in action--.

-----

Debtorby,

Written March 12, 2007

-------

Needless to say, the next morning we were thrilled to see

this hot-tub in our back yard.

Pyrenean Favorite

Bob, Josep and friend in Asnurri.

One of my resolutions was to blog more often and to return to writing some of the stories that accompany the photos.  In reviewing my 2006 photos and blog entries, it occurred to me that my blog has become more photoblog than a combination of the two.  Perhaps that is because my life this past year has included more visual images than completed stories.  It has been said that a picture is worth a 1000 words--which reminds me that David Chinn has redone and re-started his blog, A Picture's Worth, which is definitely worth taking a look at.  The new version includes not only submitted photos but a paragraph or two of back story for the photo. This year I too hope to take the time to add some back story to my photos.

Back to Asnurri.  In September 2006 we spent 10 days with friends who live 5K from the Pyrenees.  Each of those 10 days we were taken on a personal tour to visit 13 of the thousand-year-old villages that literally hang off the steep inclines of the mountains.  These villages have tongue-tangling Catalonian names like Ars, Arséguel, Bescarán, Ansobél, Castelbó, Montferrér, Puigcerdá and my favorite, Asnurri, in today's photos. 

Our friends Josep and Angeles know most of the people in these small villages.  He, being a gastroenterological surgeon has, over the past 20 or so years, operated on many of them.  Because of their friendship with a family from Asnurri we were given a tour of their dairy and some information about the village.  We met a neighbor with two live rabbits in her hands who introduced them by holding them high and saying in Spanish, for our benefit as they speak primarily Catalan in this area, "para cena (for dinner)."  Much of the food consumed in this area is grown either on their own farms or purchased fresh in the twice-weekly markets in La Seu D'Urgell.  After a brief conversation we climbed the steep, narrow streets viewing a new breath-taking scene with every turn of a corner or gain of altitude.

 

Looking back on where we'd been

We climbed and circled our way through the small village, constantly amazed at the beauty.  I wondered how anyone could get any work done in the midst of so much to see. I was so preoccupied with the village itself that I took almost no photos of the exquisite views from so high in the mountains.

Even 1000 years ago drainage was a priority.

After viewing the village and taking countless photos we were taken to the dairy.  The feeding is all done manually but the milking is computerized and totally controlled for each individual cow.  The photo below is of the milking carousel.  As each cow steps onto it, her ear chip is read by the computer, her udder is washed with sterile solutions then the attendant hooks her to the milking machine.  By the time she completes the round, all her milk has been collected, measured and logged into her milking history. 

Milking carousel in Asnurri Dairy

(as always, for a larger image just click on the photo)

More 2006 Favorites

A simple flower garden in a 1000-year-old pueblito high in the Pyranees.

A typical example of blooming where one is planted.  These tiny villages hanging off of steep slopes manage to have decorative flower gardens as well as vegetable patches by using whatever containers they have at hand.  Some of the villages became indistinguishable from the others except for the direction and the distance from La Seu.  The stark earthtones of the old stone houses needed color and it was wonderful to see that in late September the flowers--and plastic containers-- were still adding bright colors.

Costa Brava Favorite

Tossa del Mar

I have now visited this wonderful small town two times.  The dominating feature is, of course, the castle/fort with its four towers.  With the need for canons to protect against pirates long past, the town now is a lovely tourist destination city where many people live year round.  The contrast between the brown castle and the white Mediterranean-style buildings of the town makes it such a lovely place to explore.  The castle now contains small cozy restaurants  with subtle lighting and great food as well as beer and paella places. 

I loved all the towns we visited along and just inland from this beautiful coastline, but Tossa especially won my heart.

A view from the upper part of the castle to a tower and the town below.

Zarauz

Rent-a-Tents along the Beach at Zarauz in Basque Country of Spain

We had passed the autopista exit for Zarauz last night but it was getting dark and we wanted to find a hotel and get settled for our two-night stay in San Sebastian.  The afternoon after the Regatta we drove about 20 minutes from San Sebastian to a pictoresque small town with a fantastic beach.  There was no parking in the center of town but plenty of parking along a park within easy walking distance.  Along the way I took many photos of wall art and public sculptures which are typical of this lovely town. 

Wall mural in Zarauz

Colorful sculpture in Zarauz.

Another wall mural with bikes and moto added for effect.

I absolutely loved this lovely, clean town with "quality of life" evident everywhere: the mixture of old and new, the availability of affordable services and entertainment for all ages, fantastic food and a friendly approachability to visitors.  I could easily spend a few days in this place.

San Sebastian Regatta

Foggy view from our hotel just before sunset in San Sebastian

We left Situse and Esti off in Bilbao about 4:00 and arrived in SS about 5:00.  It took us more than half an hour to find a hotel.  We couldn't understand why everything was full.  We paid more than we wanted to for the last room in our hotel, but it was conveniently located by the river walk rambla--15 minutes one way to La Concha Beach and about the same distance along the river to Old Town.  We decided to do Old Town for dinner and catch the beach walk the next day. 

The next morning we walked toward the beach at La Conca and found a cafeteria with outdoor seating for breakfast.  As we sat with our tortilla de papa (potato-onion omelette) and a coffee (no free refills), we saw a group go by wearing yellow shirts and waving yellow flags.  A few minutes later we saw blue shirts, then green, then a huge group wearing red shirts and marching with a band.  We asked what was going on and were told it was "The Basque Country Regatta Championship."  The Basques have long been known for their sailors.  In days past they used these 17-men rowing vessels for hunting whales. They'd harpoon a whale and hang on until it became tired. Talk about a Nantucket Sleigh Ride!

The Sailor Band:  a group of real Popeyes

I wonder if the Popeye costume was inspired by these Basque Sailors.  They sing the Popeye song--in Spanish: The first line is Popeye (Po-pay-yay)  Marino soy.  (Popeye the sailor I am.) This was one of several bands that marched along the route to the port where the boats entered the water, loaded the crew and made their way into the bay.

The group in the red are the defending champions--and local favorites.

Tickets for every possible viewing place--up on the cliff sides, on top of buildings, all along the beach--had been sold in advance.  We thought about buying one but the lines were outrageous and we had planned to go to Zarautz this day and be back by dinner.  We certainly felt the enthusiasm and festivity--and now we knew why the hotels were full.

When we arrived back from Zarautz, the Champion had been crowned and the crowds had dispersed leaving just a few die-hard beach fans to watch the sunset.

People-watching

Photos snapped of seniors along several of the public walkways.

In all the cities we visited in Spain there were tree-shaded walk-ways called 'Las Ramblas."  Somewhere along most of them there is a playground built on some type of padded outdoor surface.  Grass is reserved for public gardens.  There are dozens of permanent benches, or if alongside a beach there will be movable chairs.  In the Casco Viejo (Old Town) of each city there are pedestrian-only streets with lanes on each side for bicycles.   

One thing we noticed over and over again: the custom of women walking side-by-side in lock-step with arms linked--sometimes three or four women walking together with arms linked--but men?  Never!

I love the fact that people walk everywhere and measure time by minutes on foot:  It's a 10-minute walk from the hotel or 20-minutes to the beach. We did our share of rambla-time.  During our trip we walked between 5 and 10 miles per day except for the two longest days of driving.  And because of that I actually lost weight on vacation.  Well, the wonderful healthy seafood and fresh vegetables didn't hurt either.

Mundaka

The Basque city of Mundaka, a port city not far from Guernica

This small town is one of my favorites.  Young and old seemed active and contented here. The views and food were great. We stopped at a place that Esti knew to get some water.  There was a wedding party there but when we were ready to leave, one of the wedding party had heard what Esti asked and motioned her inside and she came back with four bottles of water.  Everywhere the people were very friendly.

Having bocadillos (small sandwiches) and fried calamari in Mundaka

Before driving back to Bilbao to drop them off at a Metro stop, we had a leisurely lunch under the trees in Mundaka.  We ate at the traditional lunch time at 3:00 p.m.

Guernica and Bizkaia

Life-size reproduction of Picasso's painting on a wall in Guernica Spain

I had read some about the bombing destruction of Guernica in 1936 by Hitler and Franco's rebels, but to walk the streets and see first hand the few buildings of the original city left standing made a lasting impression of the horror depicted in Picasso's work.  Guernica now claims the title "City of Peace" and the new buildings and the general ambiance certainly gives a peaceful impression. To read the next-day eye-witness account of the bombing, click here

Our guides through the city and the area around Bilbao were Situse and Esti.  Situse, brother of Rita--our host in Barcelona--had just returned from Hawaii and was staying with his girlfriend Esti until he could find a job in Bilbao and they could get a place together.  Rita called him and he and Esti, who was raised in Bilboa and familiar with the area, volunteered to show us around Bizkaia (the area along the Bay of Biscay.)

Situse, Esti and Bob on "viewing stools" facing the Bay of Biscay.

Esti said she prefers to call them meditation stools as looking out over the water and the lush green coastline always puts her into a meditative state of mind.

The coastline view of the bay from the Viewing Stools.

After stopping along the coast a few more times we went walking through an Ecological Preserve, had Pinchos (another word for tapas) for lunch in Mundaka and visited several more scenic spots before we had to take them back to Bilbao then drive almost 2 hours to San Sebastian for a two-night stay there. The Basque area is absolutely beautiful.  The food is fantastic, and the people are very friendly.  More than once we stopped total strangers on the street and asked for directions to parking or hotels or where we could have "comida tipica" (typical food of the area). They were always very approachable and helpful.  I must say, however, that my Spanish served us extremely well..  After we left Situse and Esti, we heard no English--other than the requisite English-speaker at the hotel check-in desks--until we returned to Barcelona. There are things we could not have done without some basic Spanish.

The Guggenheim at Bilbao

The Guggenheim Museum at Bilbao Spain

We checked into our hotel at 6:00 p.m. to find out that the museum closed at 8:00 and was a 20 minute walk from our hotel.  It was a beautiful walk, however, and we had plenty of time to take an audio-tour in English and to view the highlights of each hall.  It was very interesting to see the temporaryt Exhibit on Russian Art, most having to do with Stalin, but the permanent exhibits and the building itself were the things that will stand out in my memory.

 

The rear of the building with walkways leading under the bridge.

We were privileged to see the building in the afternoon, at sunset and at night.  I tried photos at the darker times but the only one that worked was this one of the riverwalk near the museum, just after sunset.

River walkway leading toward the rear of the Guggenheim.

Actually the walkway leads to a plaza where one can walk either to the front entrance or along the river to the rear of the museum.  The front entrance is pretty un-spectacular, compared to the rest of the museum, but it does have one much-loved and photographed attraction: the flower puppy.

The flower puppy was still in its prime on September 8, 2006

Driving to Bilbao

In an earlier post (Sept 30) from my travel journal I had described the actual drive but not the scenery or cities.  Our first stop off of the Autopista was Zaragoza.  We spent about an hour walking the Plaza de Pilar and seeing the Cathedral de Pilar then decided to drive on to Logroño for the night.

A breathtaking fountain view in Plaza de Pilar.

We quickly learned the first round-a-bout after exiting the autopista would have a sign directing  us to the Casco Viejo or "Old City" and that was where we invariably began to experience a new place. We first stopped at this fountain, then walked over to the cathedral below and toured it.  This was a spectacular work of art with a roof design around the spires that I'd only seen once before.

The Cathedral de Pilar:

Once we passed Zaragoza, we were in lush green countryside with wind generators on the rolling hills and solar panels in the valleys--and all the road signs were in two languages:  Spanish and the Basque language of Eucadi.

More Catalonian food

Final night in Barcelona with Rita in another neighborhood restaurant.

Though tapas and montaditos can be found in most areas of Northern Spain, this restaurant specialized in "typical" Catalonian food.  The next photos will show close-ups of our meal. We had tapas plates of grilled vegetables, a kabob with fresh wild mushrooms and small yellow potatoes and the new food for me: caracoles (land snails.)  It had rained for several days and when that happens, all the locals are out hunting for setas--or bolets in Catalan--for their own use and to sell to restaurants. I actually loved the snails.  They were boiled, sauteed in olive oil--of course--with salt, pepper and garlic then served with a mini-fork to pop them out of their shells and into our mouths. Absolutely delicious!

Kabob, mushroom and potatoes:

Grilled seasonal vegetables:

Caracoles:

Barcelona tapas bar

Taking this photo into the mirror, I'm not quite hidden by the sign

The first night in Barcelona Rita took us to Cerveseria Catalunya, a local tapas bar in her neighborhood.  Though I've been in tapas bars before, this is absolutely the most fantastic one I've seen.  The people were cordial, not too loud.and extremely friendly.  The tapas and montaditos were exquisite and too numerous to count. When the man in the blue shirt next to Bob learned we were from the U.S. he ordered three more glasses and invited Rita and us to share from his bottle of Cava (Spanish champaign) from Villa Franca.  We tasted as many of the montaditos as we could possibly hold and returned home for a much-needed good sleep to conquer jet lag.

Below is a photo of more of the display case on our side of the bar.  On the other side it was possible to order many varieties of tapas:  small plates of fish, meat and vegetables to share.

Tastes of Barcelona

In the case of food, pictures are better than words. In Barcelona, most meals--at home or at restaurants--depend heavily on local markets like the famous La Boqueria on Las Ramblas. Here are a few photos taken in this magnificent market.

Fruits:

Nuts:

Meats and Cheeses:

Meditaranean Seafood:

For locals and Adventurous eaters:

Tomorrow some photos of dishes new to me.

Driving to Bilbao

Map of Northern Spain marked with our routes from Barcelona

Tuesday, Sept. 7

During the morning while Rita was working, Maite came over to visit.  We talked for a while and then she took us to a place she liked on Rambla de Catalunya and bought us bocadillos (small sandwiches) café and postre (dessert). We talked until time for us to pick up our car. She walked us with our luggage to Avis, hugged us goodbye then disappeared into the Metro opening.

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We picked up our little Ibisis, with minimal amenities except for AC.  Bob needed only a short time to become re-acquainted with the manual-shift transmission that we both drove exclusively until the mid-eighties. As directed we made our way onto the Diagonal out of BCN and onto the AP2 (autopista 2).  The autopistas are high-speed, low traffic pay-as-you-go highways.  They are more expensive but leave little opportunity for wrong turns.  Even the gas and food concessions are a part of the autopista system—no hunting for a gas station, clean restrooms or quick food and drink.  The most stressful part of the trip was exiting--and finding again--the correct AP as we ventured into one of the old cities.

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Our first stop was Zaragosa.  We found the old part of the city and parking facility very easily.  We had thought to spend the night here but discovered that the city was crawling with tourists and what seemed like hundreds of buses.  We had coffee and agua mineral sin gas, also called agua puro or still water.  We found that three English words/phrases were universal:  still water, parking and shopping.  Even the signs indicated the last two in English.  After visiting the Plaza de Pilar, the cathedral, a tribute to Goya we decided that we wanted a different ambiance for the evening and continued on to Lagroño which Josep had recommended.  We arrived late—after 10.pm--without a hotel, but were fortunate that the first one we tried made a call and found a beautiful, affordable hotel nearby with underground parking for our rental car.

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Having eaten a small lunch before we picked up our car we were extremely hungry.  We walked just a few blocks from our hotel to a cafeteria with outdoor seating.  We ordered food and wine and were discussing the day when a couple at the next table heard us and asked where we were from.  We told them and they said they were from Wisconsin.  We said, Oh, our son lives in Appleton.  They also were from Appleton. 

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Appletonis not a large place.  They took our card and email and were going to contact my son and his wife.   We talked with them for almost an hour—a very interesting couple- These were the first of only two American couples we would meet.

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(A little parenthetical commentary here:  The people in Barcelona, our friends and the rental car people, assured us that we didn’t need to make reservations at a hotel this time of year and could remain flexible enough to decide in the moment.  Wrong! In Logroño, which we absolutely loved, there was a huge wine festival going on and since Logroño is the prominent city in the red-wine region of La Rioja, we were extremely lucky to have found a room.)

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The next morning we were, as always, awake before the locals and wandered through the Casco Viejo (old city) enjoying the bustle of people having coffee and pastry before work. The narrow streets were full of trucks delivering fresh produce and other necessities for cafés and other businesses.  I took dozens of photos of the bridge, the parks, and the fountains.  We stayed for lunch since we were only 120 K (about 72 miles) from our destination:

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Lunch in Basque country is the biggest meal. This was our first experience since Italywith the Menu of the Day listing: “Dos platos, vino, pan, postre and café,” in this case for 9Euros (2 courses, wine, bread, dessert and coffee.) One can choose one from a list of “starters”—mostly salads, soups and vegetables-- and one from a list of 4 or 5 meat dishes.  We ordered a bottle of water in addition and the water cost twice that of the bottle of wine which was about the same size.  We finished our lunch about 2:15 almost an hour before the local lunch rush would begin.

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We picked up our car and bags at the hotel and said goodbye to this wonderful city and were off to Bilbao , the capitol of Basque country.

Wednesday September 8

Even with a stop in Vitoria, a Basque city of which the “Casco Viejo” (old town) was bombed in 1936 and rebuilt after WW 2, we arrived at our hotel in Bilbao and were checked in and on our way to the Guggenheim by just after 6.  The museum closed at 8 p.m. so we walked the 20-minute walk rather quickly.

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The titanium-covered Guggenheim building IS the main exhibit.  They have begun to accumulate some permanent collections and continue to have temporary exhibitions that rotate through the 3 main floors—but the structure itself is what I will remember.  We took an audio tour in English and thoroughly enjoyed it.  The building is constructed on stone, marble, glass and titanium.  The only surface that is not curved in some fashion is the floor.  The general impression is of movement and progression of the form of the building.  After completing our tour about 15 minutes before closing, we purchased a book and some souvenirs from the gift shop and went outside to have drinks with the locals and tourists at one of the outside bars just across the way.  The sun was just setting and we made our way back to the hotel in twilight with lights and colors reflecting into the river which runs along the walking path leading to the museum.

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We stopped for a light meal of tapas (small plates of food to share) and montaditos (finger foods mounted on crusty bread circles). then returned to our hotel to watch CNN and check up on home news.  This was the first time we’d had news in English.

Journal--first two days.

September 4-7, 2006

It is Labor Day and we are on our way to Barcelona and a new adventure, once again staying in the home of someone we’ve never met in person, a friend of Marta who lived in our home for a year and whose parents, Josep and Angeles,  Paula and I stayed with in 2000.  We had been invited to stay with Josep’s sister in Barcelona but she recently had abdominal surgery and has begun a series of radiation therapy sessions and did not feel up to having company so Marta arranged a place with her friend Rita who lives right in the heart of Barcelona.

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(The first paragraph I wrote by hand in a small paper journal.  The rest I am writing on computer using my Cruzer flash drive.  I can save the text and print it out at home.  Since we have computer access 12 of the 18 days, I decided to try this instead of laboriously writing it all by hand.  I can print it out and paste it in my larger journal along with photos, postcards and parts of brochures. The one problem seems to be transferring letters and symbols from a keyboard set for Catalan.)

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We rode Business class, a possibility for retirees of the airline if there are seats available.  We arrived, well rested at 11:30 a.m. on Sept 5, cleared customs and by noon were in a taxi en route to Rita’s apartment and were in bed sleeping by 1 p.m. Barcelona time.

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After a short nap we walked four blocks to Casa Mila a.k.a. La Pedrera which means rock quarry because the walls appear to be carved from rock.  Inside is an apartment furnished as it was when Gaudi lived there.  It is interesting but the real attraction is the roof.  Gaudi believed in creating beauty everywhere possible.  Around each air shaft, each stairwell, every cover for heating or water etc. he built magnificent monoliths and covered many of them with mosaics of his own design.  Some were tiles broken and placed in specific patterns.  Some were broken bottles of various colored glass.   A path of steps and curves, arches and pinnacles creates an amazing sight.

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We walked Las Ramblas to the end where the statue of Christopher Columbus stands and then across the bridge to the Tapas House at the Entrance to the Port where we ate a light lunch of six  Montaditos each—small appetizers “mounted” on crisp pieces of  baguettes.

We had red wine and mineral water.  The wine cost half the price of the same quantity of water.

A little before 8 p.m. we met Rita and the three of us walked down the Rambla Catalunya to Cerveseria Catalunya –the best place I’ve seen for tapas and montaditos.  There were more than 50 varieties, all of them made in the restaurant/bar.  The tapas plates included pescaditos fritos-- small fried fish,  pinchos—small whole calamari the size of a finger and other plates of several pieces of one thing.  The montaditos included small mini-tenderloins on toast with a wonderful sauce, crab, minced mushrooms, jamon Serrano—cured ham--and many more.

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The next day we took the metro to Gaudi´s famed La Sagrada Familia—Holy Family—cathedral.  Gaudi was hit by a trolley car in 1926 and died with only a small portion of the work completed, but he left behind a complete scale model and all his blueprints and plans.  Work has continued for 80 years now and some estimate it will continue for 50 years more.  Work is just beginning on the nave and they are still forming specially shaped blocks in concrete molds.  It is an amazing work of art complete with details rarely seen today.  It is supported by a foundation whose main source of funds is the entrance fees paid by tourists from all over the world.  I was told that when the money is insufficient, the work stops until money is once again available.

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We retraced some steps that Paula and I had walked in 2000,  stopping for fresh squeezed juice in La Boqueria  market, meandering through the Old Town—Barri Gotic, and discovering the completely redeveloped BORN, a formerly neglected area around an old covered market with a picturesque multi-colored tiled roof.  The building is at this time still empty but serves as a recognizable landmark and namesake for the area as Born means market.

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At the locally respectable hour of 3:00 p.m. we stopped for lunch along the rambla then took the metro “home” for a short rest.

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In the evening Rita called the Avis around the corner from her house and negotiated the price and terms which included an airline employee discount and extra kilometers.  Our trip to Basque country is estimated at 1400 kilometers on the AP (autopista) and we will drive off the AP to see a few small villages.

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Today is the 7^th and we leave Barcelona at 1:00p.m in our first attempt at driving in another country. Spain is quite organized and the signs are easily understood so I don’t anticipate any problems.

80 years and counting...

La Sagrada Familia cathedral in Barcelona

Two Metro stops from Rita's house and we visited Gaudi's famous work to see how it was coming.  The mammoth project was incomplete when he died in 1926 but his plans and models were complete so work has continued for 80 years--and some estimate it will continue for 50 more.  I do not visit cathedrals for their religious significance but for the art--and magnificent art it is!  On the link from my previous post there are many photos of this cathedral in process.  I saw it first in 1996, again in 2000 and now.  During the first visit, there were no tops on the spires.  Now those are almost finished and they are working on the inside.

It is labor-intensive work and is funded mostly by donations from a foundation and entrance fees from visitors.  It an exquisite monument to art.

Barcelona afternoon

We spent our first afternoon in Spain on the roof of Casa Mila.

The woman we were staying with lives just a few blocks from this Gaudí-designed building so after a short nap we had espresso on La Rambla Catalunya and walked over.   The city of Barcelona is sometimes called the city of Gaudí because his architectural influence is so dominant.  This building also houses the apartment he lived in and it remains furnished today as it was when he lived there. 

Gaudí believed that air shafts, stairwells, electrical and mechanical access areas need not be merely utilitarian so he covered them all with this elaborate sculptural roof park.  I am amazed at his versatility and imagination.

The photo above was taken looking down into a floor mirror on the floor of a hallway through which we passed going to the roof.  The brick and wood ceiling and the stringed structure of weight and balance objects are reflected--along with my husband's face.

Click the link for more photos of amazing contributions by Antoni Gaudi.  Though we didn't go to Parc Guell this visit as we only had two days in Barcelona, check out the photos of this amazing park.

Catalonia, here we come!

Photo taken April 2000 just outside Ursegel in Northern Catalonia, Spain.

My friend Paula and I visited this and many other small 1000-year-old villages in Catalonia just a few kilometers from the French border.  This photo shows the Pyrenees, still snow-covered, in the background.  I have wanted my husband to see this part of Spain for so long and now we are going.  Tomorrow we fly to Barcelona.

We'll spend a couple of days getting off jet-leg and onto  the Spanish time schedule while becoming re-acquainted with the land of Gaudí, jamón serrano and tapas.  We plan to rent a car and travel for 5 or 6 days on the side roads through the small villages of the Basque area and the Northern coast along the Bay of Biscay from Bilbao to San Sebastian then back to Barcelona.

Next we'll take a shuttle van  two and a half hours to La Seu D'Urgell to visit parents of a young woman who lived with us for a year.  They have become dear friends and we see them every year as they visit Colorado to see their two daughters who are currently living here. 

Enjoy this photo as we travel. I'll be back with hundreds of photos around the 24th of September.

Goodbye Cincinnati

Rainy Day on the Ohio River in Newport Kentucky.

On our anniversary evening, this is the scene that confronted us as we made our way to the restaurant we chose for our meal.  There was some back-up in the reservations and not enough room inside the waiting area so we took our black notifier with lights and buzzer next door to Barnes and Noble bookstore--where we can always spend a few minutes. 

The cold appearance in the photo disguises the fact that it was 85 degrees at 7:00 p.m.  We had an umbrella but no jackets.  People were walking around in tee-shirts and shorts, most content to just enjoy the warm rain. 

After the meal I took a photo of the rain-washed Marlin sculpture outside Mitchell's Fish Market where we ate. The impending sunset was so inviting that  we ambled back over the gray bridge to the downtown area. On the walk back we were glad we weren't in a bus as the Tim McGraw/Faith Hill concert was just letting out and the traffic was horrendous.

As we walked along under the highway fly-overs a man said hello and asked if we'd enjoyed the concert.  Bob, who loves to talk to anyone, responded and began talking about how Cincinnati had grown and changed since he used to fly there.  This conversation morphed into baseball, the Reds, Pete Rose etc.  Finally Bob asked what the man did in Cincinnati.  "Me, I'm a street person these days." he said, pointing to the jar in his hand which held a few bills.  He didn't ask us for anything, just shook his head and said, "Thanks for the conversation.  It's good to remember the good times."  I know there was a story there.  I wanted to grab my pen and journal and sit him down right then and there for an interview, but of course the timing, place and opportunity did not mesh.

This last photo was taken earlier in the day. I love the lines of the curvilinear steps, the angle of the flags and the first arch of the yellow bridge. 

All in all a great experience in Cincinnati.

Bridging the Ohio

One of several bridges from Ohio to Kentucky across the Ohio River

Even through the drizzling rain, the bridge, the river and the lush foliage are magical.  I walked all along the riverfront taking photos of the sights--both natural and man-made.  In the photo below, the building farthest to the left that has a flag on top is our hotel.

A paddle wheeler taken from the bridge with my new Zoom camera. 

A small paddle wheeler with the Cincinnati river bank and part of the city

Below, a paddle wheeler at sunset.

And......Docking at sunset!

Netherlands Hotel

Photo taken in a quick sprint into the rain while waiting for a bus

The first thing we did after getting settled in our room was to take a walking tour of the hotel.  Every public room, every hallway--even little traveled ones that we accidentally wandered into--were all decorated with the muted colors, mirrors, sculpted molding and rich tapestries.

A dining hall for catered dinners.

An open space we looked into from a hallway during the day

And at night when I was trying out my new camera.

I'm still on the learning curve with my new camera that arrived exactly 24 hours before our plane touched down in Cincinnati.  I keep the instruction manual in my purse for ready reference. So far I am THRILLED to have lots of optical zoom and image stabilizer but still have to learn its limits.  I am so glad it came before we went on the trip.  No more "Zoom Envy!"

Details

View through an arch onto a porch with columns.

What makes one city memorable and another not?  For me it's in the details, the ambiance, the sense of history and community. Charleston still has  "rope dry lanes" which are now walking paths to cut through the SOB neighborhood.  These lanes were where the ship's crews would stretch out the ropes to dry after a long voyage.  Brick and cobble-stone streets alternate with modern-day one-ways  controlled by state of the art timed lights. Brick and wrought iron stairways are common, as well as verandas, piazzas and columns.  The tree of choice in Charleston is the Palmetto. 

While walking through the interior of this peninsula city, it is easy to forget that it is also a port city.  While we were walking the path along Charleston Harbor, we saw a docked cruise ship, a naval aircraft carrier and a cargo ship.   

Our guide told us that just two weeks before they had opened the new bridge in this photo, connecting Charleston with Mount Pleasant.

I had heard so much about this city, about its checkered history, but I have to say I am impressed with how cosmopolitan the city is now--and how inclusive.  I will go back if I can--for a longer visit-- but probably not in the summer.

Alcohol and drugs

A Red Dot Store in Charleston, S. Carolina

It seems that what most people call "Liquor Stores" are unmentionables--at least in writing on the builldings--in Charleston.  It is prohibited by law to write the name of the store or the words alcohol, wine, spirits etc. on the actual structure.  The products sold are identified only by the large red dots, and in this case, the small sandwich board standing just outside the door.  Our walking-tour guide also told us that all Red Dot stores, by law, must currently close at 7:00 p.m. but people are trying to change the law to allow them to stay open until 11:00 p.m.

This was news to me. As a child I remember hearing about "wet" and "dry" states. I wonder if any "dry" states still exist. My current home state still does not allow grocery stores to sell wine or hard liquor, but it does allow Liquor Stores to put up signage on their buildings and to advertise in the newspapers.  While Charleston's liquor stores must sell their products from plain brown boxes--with red dots-- the pharmacies can present themselves in pictoresque finery (see below) as long as they meet the requirements of the historic designation.

I'd be interested to know if other states still have restrictions or unusual laws governing the sale of alcohol.

Huge Historic Homes!

Here are some typical historic homes on East Bay Drive in Charleston's Battery Area .

South of Broad

Hills House Fountain courtyard where our Charleston walking tour began.

We met our guide here at 10:00 a.m. to walk for 2 hours and 40 minutes exploring Church Street and South of Broad Street--an area whose residents are known by the locals as SOB's. This area features homes in an historic district which limits changes that can be made--even in the color of the paint as in this photo of Rainbow Row.  The renewal of the area was begun by a woman Realtor who bought the one to the left, restored it, painted it red, then encouraged others to restore the adjacent homes and paint them varied colors.  She then established one of the first Registered Historic Districts which she named Rainbow Row.

Our guide told us that the least expensive two-story one x two's (one room deep by two rooms wide) were selling for $1,000,000.00 and more.  Many of these homes are turned sideways on the lots so that the depth is the part facing the street and the front and back doors face their neighbors.

One can only imagine the market value of the huge mansions with huge columns and triple piazzas (fenced walk-out porches from each level of the home.)

As we were walking South toward Broad Street we passed a restaurant called SNOB.  I couldn't resist taking a photo just to applaud the humor and whimsy pointed toward the obvious opulence and attitude of the outrageously rich.  This group is certainly not unique to Charleston but their homes are certainly more accessible to foot traffic than homes of the wealthy in many other tourist areas.

History, Romance and Opulence

Chandelier in Charleston Place Hotel lobby

We arrived in Charleston 7 hours later than scheduled.  Our flight was cancelled and our back-up flight which had looked good for standby flyers filled with bull riders who had to be in Charleston for an event that night.  We used the seven hours to have lunch, explore the Atlanta Airport and both of us confronted the learning curve on our new addiction: Sudoku.  After checking into our hotel we grabbed some "Things to do in Charleston" brochures and headed for a seafood restaurant. 

The walking tour we decided on suggested signing up the day before at Charleston Place Hotel so we did. While there I was captivated by the chandelier above and the fountain of horses which I photographed first by night and then the next morning in daylight.

I love "city art" and Charleston is filled with both serious and whimsical examples of it.  We were only able to spend one day sightseeing but thanks to a  2 1/2 hour guided walking tour, we experienced a lot.  Tomorrow I will write more and include more photos.

Sky views and wind

High winds forced 18-wheelers off the road and formed wispy sculpted clouds.

On our return trip we stopped at a rest stop, mostly to rest from driving in a heavy cross-wind. I had to brace myself against a building to get these photos.

They look harmless enough but the wind that produced them was not--it was around 50 mph. Many trucks and other high-profile vehicles were pulled off the road beside buildings or on off-ramps below the highway level.

We were at the rest stop for about half an hour, mostly trying to persuade our 23-pound dog to brave the wind to do her business.  As we were preparing to leave I caught a pre-sunset photo with clouds and backlighting of a picnic shelter.  It was absolutely beautiful.  I could have stayed longer--except for the wind.

Race Day!

The "Old Birds" Running Team plus Rene and James.

At 6:30 a.m. we were at the parking lot near the start of the 41st running of the Decille Memorial Relays.  As soon as we parked James, the 27-year-old firefighter came up to us, "Is there a spot for me?"  Bob told him he was running leg number two.  "Great! I'm ready."

Soon everyone had arrived and the annual team before-the-start photos were taken.  Martita and I were the DP's (Designated Photographers), each of us with three or more cameras hanging around our necks.

Martita arrived in running clothes as she had decided to run from the start  back to their lodge--about five miles.  Bob and Rene followed the runners in a car, giving them water every two or three miles.  Martita and I relaxed until 11:00 a.m. and then started up the back side of the course to intercept Bob and Rene and take photos as Rene received the hand-slap handoff from the previous runner to send him on his way. We then caravaned the two cars back down the 20 miles as first Rene, then Bob, ran their legs.  About one mile from the finish we drove down to tell April the race manager that Old Bird Bob would arrive in about 8 or 9 minutes.  The team escorted him across the line ,celebrated the team's 35th year of participation in this race then disbanded to reunite at 6:30 p.m. for a celebratory dinner together at the condo three couples had rented together on the beach.

We talked, showed grandchildren photos and commisserated over health problems.  One runner was absent because he had a biopsy scheduled for potential prostate cancer.  Another one, present, was having some sort of emotional problems, exhibiting inappropriate and pretty outrageous behavior.  I guess it's to be expected that when 14 people have a 20-year history and all are over 63, there will be some problems. 

We'd all eaten and were mingling and enjoying some wines from California, Chile and Australia when someone yelled, "Sunset!" We all filed outside, across the sand and onto the pier to participate in an annual ritual:  Larrry, on his cornet, plays the sun down with taps.  It is always a very emotional moment as all the husbands are ex-military pilots and two of the wives (I am one) lost brothers in Vietnam. 

We have long-term although superficial relationships, sharing this event and discussing parenting and grandparenting priorities but we have very different political, religious, cultural diversity and "world view" opinions as well as hobbies and interests.  All of these people are on my "worry" list, my  people for whom I have concerns about their welfare, but they are not on my "to call if I need someone" list--nor am I on theirs.

The two ex-officio runners stole the show at the after-race presentations.  After Bob, this year's team chairman, announced the official times and presented the official shirts, Rene asked  to say some words to the group.  He spoke with such gentle sincerity and appreciation for being included that there was not a dry eye in the room.  He then opened a bag and presented each "Old Bird" team member with 2 shirts:  one T-shirt and one polo shirt--both imprinted with the logo of the "Santiago Runners Club," the running group of which Rene is the publications manager.  He also invited any of them and their wives to visit he and Martita in Chile and stay at their house.  I think one or two of them may take him up on his invitation.

Next young James Smith, 27-years-old and quiite mature for his age, full of the idealism not yet tempered by life experience, spoke and inspired us all.  He had all the mothers searching their minds for a 20-something daughter or niece to introduce him to.   James said he is determined to form and enter a team of runners for next year's relay--and I believe he will.

We all said goodnight and goodbye, gave hugs all around and vowed to try to be here next year, though we never know until February or March who will be able to come.

Team photo at the finish line

Chile meets Lake Tahoe

Martita and I at  Lily Lake with Mount Tallac in the background

Today We met Rene and Martita for breakfast then left to drive the 73 miles around Lake Tahoe with stops at some favorite off-road places.  First we visited the Rainbow Trail Stream Profile Chamber, a Forest Service project to study the amount of rainfall and snowmelt, the type of fish, the quantity of silt washed into the lake etc. A portion of the stream is diverted and from an underground chamber it is possible to view stream life and currents.

Next we stopped at Fallen Leaf Lake, Lily Falls and Lily Lake.  Mount Tallac had fresh snow which added to the reflection in the water.  We found a wonderful lunch place called Firesign Cafe and stayed longer than planned so we had to rush to show them Sand Harbor Beach before we had to return for the Pre-Race gathering in South Lake Tahoe.  It was raining at Sand Harbor so we practically ran over the boardwalk clicking humidity-spotted photos as we went. 

We arrived at Lakeland Village just in time for our meeting with the same 7 couples who have been meeting the second weekend in June for over 20 years.  Some of our team's runners have been here for 35 years.  This was my husband's 26th year to run in these relays.

The legs for the race were chosen:  Jack, # 1; Fireman James, # 2; Larry, #3; Roy, Tony and Gary, #4, Rick #5; Rene, #6 and Bob, #7.

One of the runners, Tony, had brought two videos from 1990 and 1991.  It was interesting to see all of us 14 and 15 years ago.  The meeting broke up around 9:30 p.m. as we'd all be getting up at 6:00 a.m. the next morning for the start of the race at 7:00.

Fire in the Forest!

Gazebo Pond at the Pope-Baldwin Estate

Thursday. June 9, 2005

South Lake Tahoe, California

We arrived about 2:30 p.m. yesterday, parked, leveled, took a long hot shower, and picked up email messages to read off-line.  Somehow the prongs on my mouse had gotten bent and the only mouse available was the green button on the laptop keyboard.  So this morning, while Bob fed quarters to the coin-op washers and dryers at the Tahoe Valley Campground, I went to Staples and bought a new external mouse.  Much better!

Back to yesterday:  We went for a late lunch to a Chevy's for Mexican food since Denver no longer has a Chevy's and we always enjoyed their fresh "no cans" food philosophy.  But, alas, it seems there has been a merger with El Torito and La Fiesta and the "no cans" slogan has disappeared from their menus along with the Ranchero sauce made of fresh chopped tomatoes which added so much to the Chili Rellenos and Chicken enchiladas.  The ambiance is still Chevy's but the food quality is definitely not the same.  We ate enough that we just snacked for dinner and went to bed early.

Today  we drove up Highway 89 to walk a little and chose the Pope-Baldwin Estates which now belong to the Forest Service.  As we were leaving the Gazebo Pond and just turning the corner past the Scarecrow garden, we heard sirens, then a firetruck arrived and firemen began running toward a burning car.  We both were sheepishly trying to get photos from a discreet--and safe--distance when one of the firemen came over to talk to us.  He said it was a training exercise and we could get better photos over by the tent where a man was standing behind some kind of control board manipulating the fire to similate different types of firefighting challenges.

Training Control tent

We watched for over a half hour as the fire-fighter men and women dealt with flare-ups, water-pressure failure, collapse of a fellow fire fighter etc.  We both remarked that it was a little like the simulator training Bob had to take every six months during his career, though instead of engines shut down and hydraulic failure, the firefighters had their own specific simulations.  One fireman told us that in this exercise below, they were to first create a water screen between them and the fire, then try to subdue the fire.  The slogan they were given was "Nozzle left for life and right to fight."

As we were leaving we spoke with a young fireman who asked where we were from and what brought us to Tahoe.  Bob told him about the relay race and they chatted a bit about it.  We were walking towards our car when a young fireman, in full firefighting regalia, came running after us shouting, "Sir! Sir!" until we stopped.  "Tell me about your race," he said.  "I want to run."  He gave us his cellular number and Bob said if any of our runners could not run their sections of the race, he would call him and he could run on our team.  It seems the young man had run his first marathon the week before at a sub-three-hour time.

After a shower and some quick house-cleaning chores we drove to meet Rene and Martita, our friends from Chile, who were arriving by plane today.  We took them out for some of the best barbecued ribs I've ever had at Hoss Hoggs in S. Lake Tahoe.  I had scouted out a place where I could get a good cellular signal as I had promised that we'd call Paula, my friend at Apprentice of Wonder, so she could talk with the two of them.  She and her husband had stayed with R and M when we all went to Chile last November.  After the call we took them back to their apartment after making some plans for tomorrow.

The four of us enjoying Hoss Hogg's Ribs

Petroglyphs, flat tires, shoe trees

Petroglyphs from the Hikison National Petroglyph Site

Tues. June 7, 2005

We arrived about 1:00 p.m. at Bob Scott and I fixed a quick lunch.  We then drove back 15 miles in the Lib (Jeep Liberty) to the Hikison National Petroglyphs and took a nice self-guided nature trail which pointed out very interesting—and unusual for us—petroglyphs, estimated to be between 200-500 years old.  They differed from the typical Southwest petroglyphs in that these consisted mostly of curvilinear designs, some stippling and cross-hatching.

On the trail we also learned the names of some of the common desert plants, many of them currently flowering.  One I’d seen but didn’t know its name I now recognize as Indian Rice Plant (also Sand plant). Many of the high-desert flowering plants are miniatures, close to the ground—much like tundra plants—to avoid the strong winds and to shelter behind rocks and trees for protection.

Wednesday, June 8, 2005

8:00 a.m.

We had a nice stay last night—we were one of two vehicles in the campground—but it was so cold that we stayed inside and listened to the next to last cassette of our audio book of Middlesex.   What a well-written, well-read book!  The professional reader wonderfully portrays the writer’s magnificent characters and their stories.

I’m writing at this early hour in our motor home parked in the lot of a service station while I wait for Bob and the mechanic to drive back 7 miles back to our campsite to change a stubborn tire on the Liberty—our first flat in almost seven years of driving this road.  The tire lugs are on too tight so they are going back in the mechanic’s truck with some “super-duper lug wrenches with lots of torque.”  I’m comfortable in my little heated house, listening to Ry Cooder’s Mambo Sinuendo on the CD player.  (Five radio stations actually come through clearly:  two are simultaneously carrying Rush Limbaugh, one is carrying Bill Reilly and the other two are promising to save my soul, for a small donation to the cause.)  I prefer Ry Cooder.

We’d thought to arrive early to Tahoe but now probably it will be after lunch.

At 9:15 Bob returned, driving the Lib.  Not only did Ray S. from Wray Colorado produce the tool with the proper torque to loosen the lug nuts, he retrieved the offending screw from the damaged tired and repaired the tire--which now is serving as our spare tire.  The only garage in town—and it didn’t accept AAA—only charged $45 for driving the 16-mile round trip and fixing the spare.  At $2.69 per gallon of gas, it barely covered his gas.

Once again under way, we finally were able to stop to view the famous “Shoe Tree” at a pull-off about an hour out of Austin.  It seems that when there’s not much to do, the residents along the highway create their own entertainment.  Someone years ago, for who knows what reason, tied the laces of a pair of shoes together and tossed them over a branch.  Now the tree sports several hundred pairs of shoes, going up to the tallest branches.  Over the years, wind or sun has weakened some laces and the shoes they held have fallen, to become disconnected un-paired carcasses on the dry riverbed below the tree.  Some of the disconnected have ridden the rare flash floods down-river to become just another landfill candidate.

Micro-Macro

View of Cohab Canyon Trail in Capitol Reef Park

Sunday, June 5, 2005

We drove the 6 miles from the Campground to the trailhead and were on Chimney Rock Loop trail at 8:30 a.m. and back to our car at 11:40—3 hours and 10 minutes of strenuous, shade-less hiking amid unbelievable beauty.

Yesterday’s hike to Cohab Canyon was “micro” with everything near.  We were able to study and photograph various colors of lichen—orange, yellow, blue, small tundra-like flowers, artful striations of erosion marks on the rocks, and countless small lizards and large chameleons.

Today’s hike was “macro,” a spectator’s hike with extremely wide-angle views of row after row of Wingate, Navajo, Chinle, and Moenkopi formations with colors of vermilion, salmon, azure, gray and white—all framed against a clear-blue morning sky at the beginning and then populated by fair-weather cumulus clouds by the time we arrived back to the trailhead.

On this hike I inaugurated my new walking pole with spring tip and ergonomic grip and wrist strap.  Normally an “aspen-stick” user I became a believer as the spring tip held, especially on downhill rock faces, taking pressure off my slightly arthritic knees.

View from Chimney Loop Trail

We made the loop and decided to drive the 5 miles to Torrey Utah for lunch.  When we drove through town looking for a restaurant, they were all closed.  Then we saw dozens of cars parked around one building.  It was an LSD church.  Nothing was open and probably all 187 residents of Torrey were at church.  On the way back out of town we spotted a sign pointing up a hill:  Wonderland Café. Up the hill and not visible from the highway, this restaurant was Open.  What a delightful surprise!   And, great food!  It was mostly traveler food but done with a delicacy of flavor rarely found in small rural communities, especially one located 75 miles from the Interstate Highway.  I had the ground steak with sautéed fresh mushrooms and onions in a very delicate brown sauce along with steamed veggies and a garden salad.  All the veggies were fresh, not frozen, and very tasty.  We’ve had our share of marginal meals in both Torrey and Hanksville, the two towns closest to Capitol Reef Park.  Now we know where the good food can be found.

We usually cook all our meals in the motor home or on our LP gas grill but if we’re out for the day, we’ll grab lunch on the go.  We can carry frozen meats and fresh fruits and veggies for about 8 days without shopping.  We can “dry” camp (without hook-ups) with quick “soap and rinse” showers in the motor home every other day and have enough space in our holding tanks for a week, but if possible, we prefer to shower in the State Park Showers.  Most are free but we’ve found a couple that were timed and charged $1 for five minutes of hot water.

Monday, June 6, 2005

We’re camped tonight at Cave Lake State Park near Ely Nevada—one of our favorite places on Highway 50, the loneliest highway in the U.S.  The scenery is spectacular and the camp spaces are placed among the pinion and juniper trees typical of this area, very private and secluded.  The small lake is pleasant and reserved for shore fishing—no boats or water-recreation equipment.

I had my mind set on a hot shower in the park but only one shower was open and the other provided approximately 30 seconds of warm water—just enough to soap up and add shampoo—then turned freezing cold.  By the time I rinsed body and hair, my skin was pink and very cold.  I walked back up the hill to our motor home and sat in front of the furnace outlet to warm up.  I even thought of turning on the generator to blow-dry my hair but since I had it cut short for the vacation, it dried pretty quickly.

Tomorrow a short day of driving to Bob Scott National Forest Campground just before Austin, Nevada.

Wandering the Blue Highways

The Colorado River at Island Acres State Park in Colorado

I think the easiest way to share some of the things we experienced is by sharing my journal entries during the trip which began June 2 and ended June 20. 

Thursday, June 2, 2005

Space 23

Island Acres State Park, just East of Grand Junction Colorado.

We checked into the park about 2:30 p.m. having left Denver about 8:30 a.m.to arrive at our favorite rest stop at Glen Canyon for lunch.  We double-checked the water heater, water pump, and gas grill.  All worked properly. We leveled the motorhome and opened some windows and then walked a wonderful trail along the Colorado River.  Wow!  The river level is the highest I remember in the six years we’ve been stopping here--and the introduced tamarisk plants, as always, are crowding out the native plants and sucking up water much-needed elsewhere. Over the years we’ve developed an efficient routine for managing meals. At 5:30 p.m. Bob started the gas grill attached to the LP gas of the motorhome and, when hot, added the Casual Gourmet Chicken Pesto Brats while I fixed corn on the cob, steamed Normandy veggies and some fresh greens with tomatoes and basil.  We toasted the first meal and the beginning of our trip with a Yellow Tail (Australian) Shiraz/Cabernet blend.  It is a wine I definitely will buy again.  Bob then made the first of his one-match campfires for this camping season.  I’m now outside writing in my paper journal until it gets too dark to see, 

Friday, June 3, 2005

We’re up with the sun and each have a hot beverage in hand: coffee for Bob and green tea for me.  Bob ran an hour; I walked 45 minutes along the river, picking possible sites for next year.  I note my choices:  #1 and #23 for electricity only and 57 and 58, by the river, if we wanted to splurge on full-hook-ups.  We rarely get the hook-ups as we fill everything in Denver and aren’t ready for dumping the holding tanks yet.  Electricity is enough of a luxury.  It means we can use our electric coffee maker, hair dryer, computer (off-line)and, if needed, the air conditioner--which we’ve never needed here in early June. On my walk today I got some amazing photos of magpies in tamarisks and other trees. They were busy fussing over which of them got the rabbit carcass in the trail and were not paying attention to me.

After our walk/run we finished off the coffee, rolled off of the leveling blocks and completed our rattle-abatement checklist:: towel wrapped around the stove burners to prevent noise on bumpy roads, all rolling shelves stored and locked, microwave rotating pan wrapped, toilet lids down and shower nozzle stored.

We were off by 9:00 and gassed up both Lib and motorhome in Grand Junction as we want to have a full tank on the Lib to spend the day driving Cathedral Valley in Capitol Reef National Park.  Just outside Grand Junction we stopped at a State Rest Stop to enjoy the Book Cliffs as the wetter-than-usual Spring has produced  a landscape lush with vivid colors: green, blue, deep purple, yellow, red and orange desert plants.  Absolutely stunning!

As we left Hanksvillle, Utah for the 40-mile scenic drive to Capitol Reef NP campground, we realized that it was going to be different this year. For seven years we’ve visited this park the first week in June and we’ve not seen the high-desert landscape so green or the Freemont River running so high. We arrived during the last rain-shower of a two-day soaking rain and stopped at the Visitor Center to ask about Cathedral Valley and Striker Valley/Burr Trail.  Neither is recommended for tomorrow.  Capitol Gorge drive and trail?  Closed! Grand Wash? Closed!  The ranger explained that this year they have had more spring moisture than in any year since 1983. Since the soil in the area contains a large amount of Bentonite, a clay-mud mixture which makes it almost impossible to drive when the roads are damp, he suggested we check in tomorrow and Sunday to see if it is dry enough to open the roads.  We will choose a hike for tomorrow and then decide later regarding plans for Sunday.  There is always something new to see here so we’re never disappointed.

We found a camping space in Lot C of the Orchard Campground inside the National Park. We settled in, leveled the MH, then went for a late afternoon drive on a beautiful scenic road (paved, so not muddy).    As always, I took too many photos as the slanted sunlight off the many colorful formations was simply irresistible despite the fact that I have countless photos taken each of the past six years on this same scenic drive.

Tonight’s meal: Grilled steak, asparagus, mashed potatoes, romaine salad with blueberries and tomatoes with Nagano Rice Vinegar & fresh basil with just a touch of olive oil--and another Yellow Tail Reserve wine, this time a Shiraz.  As we ate outside, a small herd of deer rambled through the meadow next to our campsite, oblivious to our presence: a fitting end to our first day among some of the most beautiful scenery in the Southwest USA.

Saturday, June 4, 2005

Cohab Canyon Trail, 3 1/2 miles round trip

Around 9:30 a.m. we walked across the road from the campground to the Cohab Canyon trailhead.  It begins with ¼ mile of switchbacks straight up to a shelf which opens into beautiful Cohab Canyon with its many adjoining slot canyons.  Walking through time, we came first to tafoni-pocked sandstone then white Navajo sandstone domes and breast-like formations.   We passed wind-and-water-formed sculptures resembling Easter Island Moai and ethereal unidentified space-like creatures.  On the trail we met people in their 60’s and 70’s as well as young couples with kids in back-pack carriers, all walking the almost 4-mile hike.  We all marveled at the breathtaking views, both close-up and distant.

Back at the motorhome we had a light lunch then a nap.  The afternoon was spent with sketching and painting in watercolor, first practicing by drawing models from high-fashion photos in magazines and later sketching Bob while he read.

Late afternoon we checked in with the Rangers and all the long drives are still closed—even to 4x4 vehicles—so we’re planning another hike that we’ve never taken: The Chimney Rock Loop, strenuous but only 3 ½ miles.  The one today was marked moderately strenuous and I did fine.  My knees did not bother me at all.  I will, however, take my hiking stick tomorrow as some of the trail is through loose rock.

Countdown to Tahoe

Last year at Capitol Reef National Park Campground

Every year for the past 26 years my husband has run in the Decille Memorial Relays aroung Lake Tahoe.  The past 7 years we have traveled there in our motorhome, making it a 15-day road trip adventure, driving through the canyon country of the Colorado Plateau and stopping at night in some favorite National and State Park campgrounds. 

Today we are cleaning the Motor Home in preparation for packing it tomorrow and Wednesday.  June 2 we will leave.  Our first night will be in Colorado River State Park just 5 hours from our home.  It is our "test" night., making sure that we have everything before we leave "civilization."  Nights 2, 3 and 4 will be in Capitol Reef NP where there are no stores for 32 miles so we must be gassed up, water tank full, LP gas full and fully equipped with food  and gear because the next 5 nights will be "dry" camping--without facilities outside our vehicle,  There are bathrooms and holding tank dumps in the NP but no showers.  I am making checklists for everything--and still always forget something.

To the right are some campground regulars who visit every evening  to the orchards in which the campground is located.  These orchards were originally planted by the Mormon pioneers who traveled through these canyons and stayed for some years.  On one side of the pole fence are grassy areas for  tent campers and on the other are spaces leveled for motorhomes and trailers.  It is one of our favorite places to stay  and one of the reasons is that this park has such a variety of geological formations and all of them spectacular like the photo below, taken just outside the campground.

In just 4 days we will be here, in one of our country's most beautiful national parks, which many people miss because it is 30 miles off the interstate highway.  It's their loss.  I'd drive much further for this view.  It is definitely worth it, in my opinion, even with the price of gas and the poor mileage we get in the motorhome.  We tow our little Jeepito so we can park the MH and travel more economically on side excursions.

It's Rondy Time!

Mascot Rondy from the annual Fur Rendezvous in Anchorage Alaska

In February two years ago my husband and I participated in the Fur Rondy by running (him) and walking (me) in the Frostbite Footrace.  For a week each winter Anchorage becomes a celebration which originated from the traditional trek by fur trappers to sell their furs.  Though furs are still displayed and sold, the event has now become an annual Winter Festival.  This year's festival is in full swing, having begun Feb 26.  Click here to view some Rondy photos. While there don't miss the link to the snow sculpture photos.  Some of them are magnificent.

To see some of the many live web cams located in and near Anchorage, click here.

Designer Rest Stops!

One of several "themed" rest stops between Denver and T. or C.

Somehow traveling to visit relatives and our favorite places usually means long stretches of driving between towns "with facilities."  In fact, many signs will say  "Next exit 50 miles, no facilities."  We've learned to monitor our eating and drinking and keep an eye out for highway rest stops.  In the last 10 years or so, many states seem to be in some sort of competition to build the most architecturally interesting and inviting rest stops.  This one seems to have a saw mill/mining camp motif.  Another has an adobe theme.  Some are decorated in Southwest teal and crimson colors with random petroglyphs. Some have elaborate landscaping and floral gardens.

I'm not complaining mind you.  I remember the days when a two-hole outhouse over a lime pit was the rest stop facility-- with no decor or amenities like paper and water.  Actually the one above is one of my favorites.  I have photos of it at sunrise, late afternoon and sunset--and the views change with the light source.  It's not really apparent in the photo above but when it was taken there was a light layer of frost on the boardwalk. 

Maybe someday I'll write reviews and rankings of highway rest stops--or maybe not.